The Union Army raised 2.2 million men between 1861 and 1865. They were dressed in dark blue, in several patterns, by many different manufacturers.
Quick answer. The Union Army wore a dark blue wool uniform throughout the Civil War: either a frock coat (for officers and some early war enlisted) or a four button sack coat (the standard enlisted garment). Trousers were sky blue wool from late 1861. Headgear was the forage cap (kepi) or the black Hardee hat. Branch colour trim identified infantry (sky blue), cavalry (yellow) and artillery (red). Rank was shown by shoulder straps for officers and chevrons for NCOs.
The 1858 regulation
The United States Army adopted a new regulation uniform in 1858, which the North inherited in 1861. The uniform was dark blue wool, with branch colour trim: sky blue for infantry, yellow for cavalry, red for artillery. The frock coat for enlisted men was single breasted with nine buttons, standing collar, pointed cuffs with branch trim. The sack coat (fatigue blouse) was simpler and quickly became the standard enlisted garment in the field. The Hardee hat was a tall black felt hat with a wide brim, intended as the formal dress headgear but often set aside for the lighter forage cap in the field.
Officer dress
Union officers wore a dark blue frock coat for formal wear and sometimes a sack coat for the field. The frock coat was single breasted with nine buttons for company officers, double breasted for field officers (two rows of seven buttons for colonels, lieutenant colonels and majors). Shoulder straps showed rank: a single row of embroidery for lieutenants, additional bars and stars for higher ranks. Trousers were sky blue (or dark blue for general officers) with a stripe of branch colour. Officers paid for their own uniforms, which created significant variation.
Enlisted men
The Union enlisted soldier wore a four button sack coat of dark blue wool, with a lining to the waist (contract issues often shortened the lining to save cloth). Sky blue wool trousers after late 1861 (dark blue earlier). Standard issue brogans (ankle boots) on the feet. Forage cap for most purposes. Haversack, canteen, knapsack and rifle completed the kit. The whole weight on campaign came to about 40 to 50 pounds, which was heavy for the standard march of 15 to 20 miles a day.
Zouaves and specialist units
Several Union regiments wore exotic uniforms modelled on French Zouave or Chasseur patterns. The 5th New York (Duryee's Zouaves) wore red fez, red baggy trousers, blue vest and sash. The 11th New York (Ellsworth's Zouaves) wore similar. The 72nd Pennsylvania wore chasseur blue trousers and dark blue chasseur jacket. These exotic uniforms were impressive in parade but impractical in the field, and most were replaced with regulation blue by 1863. A few Zouave regiments kept their distinctive dress through to Appomattox.
Cavalry and artillery
Union cavalry wore a shell jacket (short waist length coat) with yellow trim, dark blue trousers with yellow stripe, kepi with yellow top, and tall boots to the knee. The sabre, Colt revolver and Spencer or Sharps carbine were the main weapons. Artillery wore a similar shell jacket with red trim, kepi with red top, and standard trousers. The horse artillery kept lighter equipment to move with the cavalry. Both branches operated across every theatre of the war.
Supply quality
The Union benefited from a huge manufacturing base and generally kept its soldiers well clothed. Contracts for uniforms went to firms like Brooks Brothers and Devlin, Hudson of New York. Quality varied with contractor, but by 1863 most Union soldiers were in regulation uniform of decent cloth. Early war shortages produced the famous shoddy wool scandal, where some contractors used reclaimed wool that fell apart in weeks. By late 1862 the problem had been largely addressed and the Union uniform settled into reliable quality.
Common questions
What is a sack coat?
The standard Union enlisted fatigue blouse: a four button dark blue wool coat, unlined or half lined, worn by nearly all Union soldiers from mid 1861 onwards.
What is a Hardee hat?
A tall black felt hat with wide brim, worn as regulation dress headgear in the Union Army. Named after William J. Hardee. Mostly replaced by the forage cap in the field.
What is a Zouave uniform?
An exotic uniform modelled on French North African troops: red fez, red baggy trousers, short jacket, sash. Worn by several Union and Confederate regiments.
What was the shoddy wool scandal?
An 1861 to 1862 problem of Union uniforms made from reclaimed wool that fell apart in weeks of wear. The word shoddy entered English as a result.
Where can I see Union uniforms?
The Smithsonian in Washington, the Gettysburg Battlefield Visitors Centre and most state historical museums hold Union Civil War uniforms.
Related reads
- American Civil War: Confederate Army uniforms
- Military frock coats through history
- 19th century infantry uniforms
- 19th century cavalry uniforms