To order a historical coat that fits, you need five measurements: chest, waist, shoulder width, sleeve length and back length. Measure over a normal shirt, keep the tape snug but not tight, and have someone help you for the back measurements. That is all it takes. Every coat at Cavalry Coats is cut to the numbers you send.
The five measurements, on one diagram
THE FIVE MEASUREMENTS EVERY MADE-TO-ORDER COAT NEEDS
How to take each measurement
1. Shoulder width
Across the back, from the bone at the end of one shoulder to the same point on the other. Keep the tape straight, not curved over the neck.
2. Chest
Around the fullest part of the chest, under the arms, with the tape level all the way around. Breathe normally. Do not puff the chest out. This is the most important number on the list.
3. Waist
Around the natural waist, roughly at the height of the navel. Fitted styles like dolmans and tailcoats use this number to shape the coat.
4. Sleeve length
From the shoulder bone, over a slightly bent elbow, down to the wrist bone. Tailors advise ending just above the wrist bone, so about half an inch of shirt cuff shows. Historical coats follow the same rule.
5. Back length
From the bone at the base of the neck straight down the spine to where you want the coat to end. This decides whether a tailcoat hits the knee or a greatcoat reaches the calf.
Five mistakes that ruin a measurement
1. Using a rigid metal tape. A builder's tape cannot follow the curve of a body. Use a flexible cloth or vinyl tailor's tape.
2. Measuring with a straight, stiff arm. You never stand that way. Keep the elbow slightly bent for the sleeve measurement.
3. Measuring over thick clothing. A jumper or hoodie adds inches that end up in the coat. A normal shirt only.
4. Puffing the chest or holding your breath. The coat will be cut for a body you cannot hold all day. Breathe normally.
5. Measuring only once. The tailor's rule is measure twice, cut once. Take every number twice and round up to the nearest quarter inch if they differ slightly.
The second method: measure a coat that already fits
If you own a jacket or coat that fits well, you can measure the garment instead of your body. Professional made-to-measure tailors accept this method because it captures the fit you already like.
Lay the coat on a flat surface, smooth out the wrinkles without stretching the fabric, and take: chest from armpit to armpit (then double it), shoulder seam to shoulder seam across the back, sleeve from the shoulder seam to the cuff, and back length from the seam where the collar meets the body down to the hem. Tell us in the order notes that the numbers come from a garment, not a body, and we cut accordingly.
Our standard size range
Most coats in the store are offered in standard chest sizes from 38 inches to 54 inches, and many styles run from XS to 5XL. If your measurements sit between sizes, or outside the range entirely, choose the custom sizing option at checkout and send the five numbers above. The coat is then cut to you rather than to a chart.
A MADE-TO-MEASURE OUTFIT CUT FROM THE FIVE NUMBERS ABOVE
Fit differs by style
Not every historical coat is meant to fit the same way. A hussar dolman is worn close through the chest and shoulders, so accurate chest and shoulder numbers matter most. A Regency tailcoat is fitted through the torso with the waist number shaping the cutaway. Frock coats and greatcoats are cut with more room, and back length becomes the number to get right.
Historical cuts also differ from a modern suit: armholes sit higher, waists sit higher, and collars stand taller. That is why we ask for your numbers rather than a modern suit size. A "42 regular" from a high street shop tells us less than your five measurements do.
If you are unsure which style suits your build, browse the full military coats range or start from the Regency collection and Hussar collection.
Frequently asked questions
Should I measure over clothes?
Measure over a normal shirt, the kind you would wear under the coat. Never measure over a jumper or another coat.
What if I am between two sizes?
Choose custom sizing and send your exact numbers. It costs nothing extra in most listings and removes the guesswork.
Can you make sizes beyond 5XL or under XS?
Yes. Every coat is made to order, so any set of measurements can be cut. Use the custom option or contact us with your numbers.
Do you make women's sizes?
Yes. Several styles are offered in women's cuts, and any coat can be made to women's measurements through the custom option.
Should I measure in inches or centimeters?
Either works. Just write the unit next to every number so nothing is mixed up. If your numbers disagree between two attempts, round up.
Send your five measurements and we cut the coat to you
