A military uniform at a wedding is the single most dramatic thing a groom can wear. Here are the five best options.
Quick answer. The five best military inspired wedding uniforms are: the hussar dolman and pelisse (most dramatic, suits most grooms), the Napoleonic British officer's coatee (iconic, works for formal weddings), the Scottish Highland doublet with kilt (unmistakable, works for Scottish weddings), the Civil War frock coat (great lines, works for American weddings), and modern mess dress or regimental dress (for actual serving officers). Each has its own character and suits different venues and seasons.
The hussar jacket
The single most dramatic wedding uniform. The short braided dolman with matching pelisse, Hungarian breeches and Hessian boots creates an immediate photographic impact that no modern suit can match. Dark colours (navy with gold braid, black with silver braid, bottle green with gold) suit nearly every venue. The hussar is particularly good for winter weddings (the fur edging and heavy wool suit the season) and for grand venues (great houses, cathedrals, castle halls). The pelisse can be slung over the shoulder for photographs, worn as a cloak later. Cost: 1,500 to 3,500 pounds for a bespoke dolman and matching pelisse.
The Napoleonic officer
A British Napoleonic officer's coatee in scarlet with facings, crimson silk net sash, white or buff pantaloons and Hessian boots. The look is unmistakably English and historically specific. Suits grooms who want a precise historical reference (Darcy, Captain Wentworth, Colonel Brandon). The coatee is less heavy than a full hussar outfit, making it more comfortable for a long day. The sash reads as formal without being costumey. Cost: 1,200 to 2,500 pounds for a bespoke coatee.
Scottish Highland dress
A Scottish Highland doublet in black or dark wool with kilt in family or regimental tartan is the standard wedding dress for Scottish grooms. The combination of kilt, doublet, sporran, hose with flashes and sgian dubh produces one of the most recognisable formal looks in the world. For non Scottish grooms with Scottish heritage, hire a kilt from a specialist outfitter. For serving or former Scottish regimental officers, the regimental mess kit is the correct choice. Cost: 1,000 to 2,500 pounds for a bespoke kilt and doublet.
Civil War officer
A Civil War frock coat (Union dark blue or Confederate grey) with gold or silver cuff lace, trousers with branch stripe, boots and kepi. The frock coat has excellent lines and is less heavy than a hussar or redcoat outfit. In the US it carries historical weight; in Britain it reads as romantic and distinctive. The look suits dinner receptions and photography very well. Cost: 800 to 2,000 pounds for a bespoke officer frock coat.
Modern military mess dress
For serving and recently retired military officers, the correct choice is current regimental mess dress or No 1 Dress. The uniform is already yours; the regulations are clear; the photographs will be excellent. Permission to wear uniform at a civilian wedding is usually granted for serving officers. Specific regimental details (hussar busby, Highland doublet, dragoon jacket) will be dictated by the regiment. For non military grooms, do not wear modern military dress unless entitled.
Common questions
Which uniform is most dramatic?
The hussar dolman and pelisse. The braided chest, fur edging and tall boots make an immediate impact.
Can I wear a uniform if I never served?
Yes, as long as it is a historical rather than current military uniform. A Regency hussar jacket, a Napoleonic officer's coatee or a Civil War frock coat are all appropriate for civilians. Avoid wearing modern military dress unless entitled.
What should the groomsmen wear?
Plainer versions of the groom's look, or standard dark morning dress or lounge suits. Avoid dressing the whole party in matching military dress.
How much lead time do I need?
Four months minimum. Six to twelve weeks for bespoke tailoring plus fitting adjustments.
What is the cost?
Expect 1,200 to 3,500 pounds for a bespoke wedding uniform. Rental is available from specialist costumiers for about 400 to 800 pounds per event.