Regency weddings are elegant, dramatic and surprisingly manageable. Here is how to dress a groom for one.
Quick answer. For a Regency wedding, the groom wears a dark tailcoat (midnight blue, bottle green or burgundy), a pale embroidered waistcoat in silk or Marcella, buff doeskin pantaloons with Hessian boots (for daytime) or black silk breeches with dancing pumps (for evening), a starched white cravat, a tall black beaver hat and plain leather gloves. Groomsmen wear slightly plainer versions in similar colours. The whole look is more dramatic than morning dress but less formal than white tie, with the period silhouette doing most of the work.
The groom's tailcoat
A Regency groom's tailcoat should be the most elaborate garment in the room. Choose a dark colour that photographs well: midnight blue, bottle green, deep burgundy or black. Fabric should be fine wool broadcloth or silk velvet mix. The cut: slim through the chest, cutaway at the natural waist, tails to the back of the knee. High collar in black velvet. Narrow lapels. Six buttons on single breasted, eight on double breasted. Lining in silk or Bemberg. The whole garment should fit precisely, with just enough chest padding to show the Regency silhouette.
Waistcoat
The waistcoat is where to add detail. Choose a cream, ivory or pale blue silk with discreet embroidery (small floral or classical motif) or figuring. Avoid loud patterns and bright colours. The waistcoat should set off the dark coat without competing with it. For an evening ceremony, white Marcella is the most formal choice. For a day ceremony, embroidered silk suits the mood. Buttons should be mother of pearl, silver or gilt.
Trousers and boots
Daytime ceremonies: buff doeskin pantaloons (tight fitting) with Hessian boots. Evening ceremonies: black silk breeches with white silk stockings and buckled dancing pumps. The pantaloons and Hessian combination is more dramatic and photographs well; the breeches and pumps are more formal but harder to carry off without practice. Choose based on the time of day and the groom's comfort with Regency dress.
Cravat and collar
A starched white linen cravat tied in a mathematical or Byronic knot. The cravat is tied around the neck beneath the shirt collar, with the shirt collar points rising above to frame the face. The knot should be precise but not stiff. A long cravat allows a more dramatic knot; a short cravat is simpler. The cravat is the single most photographed element at a Regency wedding and demands practice beforehand. Allow fifteen minutes to tie it well on the day.
The groom's party
Best man and groomsmen wear slightly plainer versions. Dark tailcoats in a complementary colour (if the groom is in midnight blue, the best man might be in bottle green). Plainer waistcoats (plain silk or cotton rather than embroidered). Same pantaloons or breeches as the groom. Same cravat style but tied more simply. Avoid dressing the entire wedding party in matching tailcoats: it reads as theatrical. One or two groomsmen in Regency dress alongside the groom makes a sophisticated impression.
Lead time and fittings
A bespoke Regency tailcoat takes six to twelve weeks. Order at least four months before the wedding. Allow for two fittings. Weight can shift between order and wedding day, so a last minute fitting may be needed. Pantaloons are harder to fit than breeches because of the tight cut; expect multiple adjustments. The cravat should be bought in advance and the groom should practice tying it. The whole outfit for groom and best man costs 2,500 to 5,000 pounds depending on fabric and complexity.
Common questions
What colour tailcoat for a wedding?
Midnight blue, bottle green or deep burgundy for most weddings. Black for a very formal evening ceremony. Avoid bright colours.
Pantaloons or breeches?
Pantaloons with Hessians for daytime. Breeches with silk stockings and pumps for evening. The pantaloons are more dramatic and photograph better.
Should groomsmen also wear Regency?
One or two groomsmen in Regency dress alongside the groom makes a sophisticated impression. Avoid matching the entire party.
What is the cost?
Expect 2,500 to 5,000 pounds for the groom's full outfit in bespoke tailoring. Groomsmen's outfits can be slightly cheaper.
How much lead time do I need?
Four months minimum. Six to twelve weeks of tailoring plus fitting adjustments and the cravat practice time.