A cavalry coat should fit close through the shoulders and chest, shaped at the waist, with the skirts falling freely from the hip. The shoulder seam sits exactly on the shoulder bone, the chest closes without pulling at the buttons, and the skirt length lands where your chosen era puts it, from mid thigh on a Napoleonic officer's coat to the knee on a Victorian frock. Get the shoulder and chest right and everything else follows.
The three fit checkpoints
SHOULDER FIRST, CHEST SECOND, LENGTH BY ERA
Checkpoint by checkpoint
1. Shoulders
The seam ends at the shoulder bone. Too wide and the coat slumps; too narrow and you cannot raise your arms, which matters if you carry a sabre or reins. Historical cuts set the armhole higher than a modern suit, which actually gives more arm movement, not less.
2. Chest and waist
Buttoned, the front lies flat with no X shaped pulling at the buttons and room for a shirt and waistcoat underneath. The waist is shaped, not tight; the fitted look comes from the cut, never from strain.
3. Skirt and sleeve length
Sleeves end just above the wrist bone with a little shirt cuff showing. Skirt length follows the pattern: shorter tails on Napoleonic officer coats, knee length on Victorian frocks and greatcoats near the calf. When ordering, the back length measurement is what sets this.
FITTED CHEST, SHAPED WAIST, FREE FALLING SKIRTS
Getting the fit right when ordering online
Since every coat we make is cut to order, fit comes down to the five measurements you send: shoulder width, chest, waist, sleeve length and back length. Our measuring guide with diagram walks through each one and the mistakes to avoid. If you sit between standard sizes, choose custom sizing rather than sizing up; a cavalry coat that fits the shoulders but swims at the waist loses the whole silhouette that makes the style worth wearing. For background on the style itself, start with what a cavalry coat is.
Frequently asked questions
Should a cavalry coat fit tight?
Close, not tight. The front closes flat with room for a shirt and waistcoat; the shape comes from the cut.
What if I am between sizes?
Choose custom sizing and send your measurements. Sizing up ruins the fitted silhouette.
Do you fit for wearing a waistcoat underneath?
Yes. Measure over a normal shirt and tell us if you will wear a waistcoat; the coat is cut with the correct allowance.
Cut to your measurements · Worldwide shipping
