Jane Austen never describes Mr Darcy in detail. The 1813 era wardrobe fills in the picture.
Quick answer. Fitzwilliam Darcy as he appears in Pride and Prejudice (published 1813) would wear a dark cloth tailcoat with high collar and brass buttons, a lighter waistcoat, buff or white pantaloons with Hessian boots, a starched white cravat tied at the throat, and a tall black beaver hat. For riding he would add a riding coat and tall boots. For a ball, dancing pumps and silk stockings. The look is slim, dark and dramatic, reflecting the dandy influence of Beau Brummell on Regency menswear.
The tailcoat
A gentleman's tailcoat in 1813 was a tightly cut single breasted or double breasted coat with a cutaway front at the waist and tails descending to the back of the knee. The collar was high and faced in black velvet. Lapels were narrow and sharply notched. Buttons were brass or horn, usually in a double row of six to eight for a double breasted coat, or a single row of six for a single breasted. The cloth was fine wool broadcloth, usually in dark colours: black, charcoal, midnight blue or bottle green. A Darcy would have the finest wool from a Savile Row tailor.
The waistcoat
The waistcoat was the main area for colour and pattern. Usually in a lighter colour than the coat: cream, buff, pale blue or embroidered silk. Single or double breasted, with a shawl collar or a notched collar. Buttons were often silver, mother of pearl or horn. The waistcoat ended at the natural waist, with the two front points sometimes extending slightly below. Darcy's waistcoat would show when the coat was open and set the tone for his dress.
Pantaloons and Hessians
Pantaloons were tight knitted cotton or buff doeskin trousers reaching to the ankle, held in place by a strap under the arch of the foot. Colour: buff, cream or occasionally dark. Over the pantaloons went Hessian boots: knee high black leather boots with a V shaped cutout at the top, often with a tassel. The combination of pantaloons and Hessians was the standard country and daytime wear for a gentleman. For evening or a ball, Darcy would change into black silk breeches and silk stockings with buckled dancing pumps.
The cravat
The cravat was a long rectangle of fine white starched linen, tied around the neck in a specific way. Beau Brummell made the cravat an art form, with elaborate knots requiring the assistance of a valet. A gentleman might wear the barrel knot, the mathematical, the Oriental or the Byronic. Darcy would wear a precise but not showy knot, with the collar points of the shirt rising above the cravat to frame the face. The cravat was changed daily and was expected to be impeccably clean.
The hat and accessories
The gentleman's hat was a tall beaver (actually felted beaver fur) in black. The brim was narrow, the crown tall and slightly tapered. Over the course of the Regency the hat became taller and more severe, eventually leading to the top hat of the 1830s. Darcy would carry a cane or an ebony walking stick, wear plain leather gloves, and keep a pocket watch on a chain. A snuff box was a common accessory. A gentleman would own several cravat pins, often set with pearls or diamonds.
The famous shirt scene
The 1995 BBC adaptation of Pride and Prejudice introduced Colin Firth's Darcy emerging from the lake in a wet shirt, which has become iconic. The scene is anachronistic (Darcy would never have swum in his shirt in company), but the shirt itself is period correct: a long linen pullover with gathered cuffs and a drop shoulder, worn as the base layer under waistcoat and coat. The shirt was changed daily and was the only garment visible at the throat and cuffs through the day.
Common questions
What colour would Darcy's coat be?
Dark: black, dark grey, midnight blue or bottle green. Dandy influence pushed toward sombre colours, with the waistcoat providing colour accent.
What are Hessian boots?
Knee high black leather boots with a V shaped cutout at the top, often with a tassel. Standard gentleman's boots in the Regency period.
Did Regency men wear breeches or trousers?
Both. Pantaloons (tight trousers) for day, breeches with silk stockings for evening. Mr Darcy would own both and know when to wear each.
Can I buy a Darcy style outfit?
Yes. Specialist tailors build Regency tailcoats, waistcoats, pantaloons and shirts for Jane Austen events, Regency balls and theatrical production.
Where can I see Regency clothing?
The Jane Austen Centre in Bath, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and the Costume Institute at the Met in New York all have Regency clothing holdings.
Related reads
- The Regency coat guide: Darcy and Bridgerton
- The Regency tailcoat guide
- The Regency waistcoat guide
- Jane Austen era clothing