The Regency gentleman restricted his coat to dark colours. The waistcoat was where decoration lived.
Quick answer. A Regency waistcoat (c. 1800 to 1825) is a single or double breasted vest cut to the natural waist with a shawl or notched collar. Made in silk, embroidered silk, Marcella (quilted cotton) or fine wool. The waistcoat was the main area of colour and pattern in Regency menswear, often embroidered or printed. A gentleman kept multiple waistcoats and changed them often. Buttons were silver, mother of pearl, horn or embroidered.
The cut
The waistcoat ends at the natural waist, often with the two front points dipping slightly below. It is cut close to the body, with chest shaping and darts at the waist. The back is in plain cotton or linen (invisible under the coat) with a belt or straps for adjustment. Front: single breasted with six to eight buttons, or double breasted with two rows of four to six buttons. Collar: shawl, notched or no collar. The collar might match the coat's collar height, framing the shirt and cravat.
Fabric and pattern
Daytime waistcoats were often in Marcella (a quilted white cotton), cream silk, buff or pale blue wool. Evening waistcoats were silk, often embroidered with floral or classical motifs in gold or silver thread. By the end of the Regency, printed cotton waistcoats with striped or checked patterns became fashionable. A gentleman might own twenty or more waistcoats and change them daily. Dyes and prints gave the waistcoat scope for personal expression that the coat did not allow.
Buttons and detail
Waistcoat buttons were often small, decorative and made in silver, mother of pearl, horn, cut steel or embroidered silk. On a formal silk waistcoat, each button might be a small jewelled piece. The pockets were small, often with pointed flaps or welt openings. The watch pocket (fob pocket) sat at the right waist for a pocket watch on a chain. The chain itself might cross the front of the waistcoat decoratively.
The dandy influence
Beau Brummell made the waistcoat the point of masculine display. His own daily waistcoats were in white Marcella or pale buff, impeccably clean and pressed. For evening he wore white silk or embroidered silk. Brummell dictated that the waistcoat should contrast with the coat but not clash: dark coat, pale waistcoat; black evening coat, white waistcoat; and so on. His rule survives in modern formal dress, where the dinner jacket is still worn with a plain waistcoat or cummerbund.
Day vs evening
The distinction was absolute. Daytime: Marcella or cotton in white, cream, buff or pale blue; plain or lightly figured; horn or pearl buttons. Evening: silk in white, cream or ivory; often embroidered; silver, gilt or jewelled buttons; worn with silk breeches and dancing pumps. A Regency gentleman changed from day to evening at six o'clock, swapping his waistcoat (and other garments) completely. Being seen in daytime dress at an evening event was a social failure.
The waistcoat today
A Regency pattern waistcoat is one of the most adaptable period garments for modern wear. It can be worn under a modern suit jacket for a dandy effect at a formal event. It works at a wedding (groom in Regency tailcoat and waistcoat, best man in modern suit with a plain waistcoat). It suits theatrical costume. Bespoke Regency waistcoats cost 300 to 1,000 pounds depending on fabric and embroidery. Lead time: four to eight weeks. The pattern is reliable and well documented.
Common questions
How many waistcoats did a Regency gentleman own?
A wealthy gentleman might own fifteen to thirty. A tradesman or less wealthy man would have four or five. The waistcoat was the main area of personal display and investment.
What is Marcella?
A quilted cotton fabric with a diamond or honeycomb pattern. Used for daytime white waistcoats throughout the Regency. Still used for formal white waistcoats under white tie dress.
Were waistcoats always white?
For daytime, often. For evening, usually white or cream silk. Country wear admitted more varied colours.
Should the waistcoat match the coat?
In Regency usage, no. The waistcoat should contrast with the coat but not clash. Dark coat with pale waistcoat is the classic combination.
Can I wear a Regency waistcoat with modern dress?
Yes, under a modern dark suit jacket for a dandy effect at formal events. The high collar and pointed hem give the look away as deliberate rather than off the peg.