The materials used in reenactor kit are often the single biggest determinant of authenticity. Here is what to look for.
Quick answer. Reenactment kit should be made from period correct materials. Wool broadcloth or worsted for coats and trousers; linen for shirts and under layers; cotton for later period items (post 1800); silk for formal and ceremonial items; leather for boots, belts and bags; horn, bone or metal for buttons. Avoid synthetics (polyester, nylon, acrylic, viscose except for lining) which did not exist before 1900. For post 1850 kit, some synthetics are acceptable for linings and interlinings.
Wool
Wool is the most important reenactor fabric. Period correct uniforms used wool broadcloth (densely woven, slightly fulled), worsted (combed yarns, smoother surface) or melton (heavily fulled, warm). Weight should be at least 350 grams per square metre for most uniforms; 500 to 700 grams for heavy winter coats. Modern suitable mills include Hainsworth in England, Woolrich in the US, Charpentier in France. Avoid lightweight tropical wool, wool poly blends and chemically treated wools. The hand should be dense and slightly rough.
Linen
Linen was the universal shirt and under layer material through all periods until roughly 1800, when cotton began to replace it. Reenactor linen should be hand or machine woven (both acceptable), bleached white or natural, in weights from 100 grams (fine shirts) to 400 grams (sturdier work shirts). Modern Russian and Lithuanian linens are good quality and affordable. Avoid heavily sized linens that feel starchy; the right linen softens with washing and becomes very comfortable.
Cotton
Cotton came to Europe through the East India trade in the 17th century and became common for shirts, under layers and some trousers from about 1750. For 17th century and earlier reenactment, use linen rather than cotton. For 18th century and later, cotton is appropriate. Marcella (quilted cotton) is specifically Regency and Victorian. Nankeen (yellow dyed cotton) is 18th and 19th century. Modern cotton weights of 180 to 220 grams per square metre are suitable for shirts and most light use.
Silk
Silk appears in formal and ceremonial items throughout the period. Officers' sashes were silk net or silk mesh. Formal breeches were silk. Waistcoats were often silk, especially for evening. Linings on finer coats were silk. Silk gets expensive quickly, so reenactor kit often uses silk for the visible items (waistcoat facings, cravats, sash) and other materials for the hidden items (lining, back of waistcoat). Suitable silk weights: 60 to 120 grams for shirts and cravats, 180 to 280 for waistcoats and formal items.
Leather
Leather is used for boots, belts, cross belts, cartridge boxes, haversack straps, scabbards and gloves. Period correct leather is vegetable tanned, finished with wax or oil. Modern chrome tanned leather is unsuitable (wrong colour and finish). For 18th and 19th century kit, use buff leather (buff coloured, cross grain) for belts and cross belts; brown or black leather for boots; natural tan for haversacks and other gear. Avoid shiny patent leathers except for specific formal items.
Buttons and hardware
Period correct buttons were made of horn, bone, pewter, brass, silver or silk covered. Plastic buttons were not invented until the 20th century. For reenactor kit, use real horn, bone or metal buttons; avoid plastic even on hidden surfaces. Buttonholes should be hand sewn or well machine stitched. Hardware (buckles, hooks) should be period correct in material and shape. Many suppliers now sell historically correct hardware for most periods.
Common questions
Can I use polyester?
For visible garments, no. For some linings and interlinings in modern reproductions, acceptable to some groups. The high authenticity groups ban synthetics entirely.
What weight wool for a Napoleonic coat?
400 to 550 grams per square metre is appropriate. Light tropical wool is wrong; heavy great coat weight is too heavy.
Where do reenactors buy fabric?
Hainsworth in England, Woolrich and Buckaroo Bobbins in the US, Charpentier in France. Various period specific online suppliers service the whole hobby.
Is linen expensive?
Moderate. Expect 20 to 60 pounds per metre for good quality linen depending on weight. One metre makes a shirt; two metres make a complete reenactor shirt kit.
What is the biggest fabric mistake?
Lightweight modern wool. Most modern commercial wool is lightweight tropical cloth meant for suits. Period uniforms used much heavier cloth, and the drape is completely different.