Hussars wore two jackets. One was buttoned on. The other was slung decoratively over the shoulder. Here is why.
Quick answer. The dolman is the fitted waist length braided jacket a hussar wore buttoned up as the main garment. The pelisse is a second, fur edged jacket worn either as an overcoat in winter or slung over the left shoulder for show in warm weather. Together they form the classic hussar silhouette. Only officers and parade dress troops still wear both today.
The dolman
The dolman is the first jacket. Short, fitted and ending just above the natural waist. The front closes with three parallel vertical rows of ball or olivet buttons, joined by five horizontal rows of braid or cord, usually eighteen rows on an officer's version. The sleeves are cut tight, with cuff knots in the regimental colour. The collar stands high and square. Facing colours on cuff and collar identify the regiment.
A dolman is heavy for its size. The braid, buttons and lining account for most of the weight, with the cloth itself being a fine broadcloth or doeskin. The jacket is not warm by itself, which is one of the reasons the pelisse exists. In summer the dolman is worn alone, with the pelisse slung off the left shoulder on a cord.
The pelisse
The pelisse is the second jacket. Cut almost identically to the dolman, with the same braid pattern and buttons, but longer by a few inches and with a fur edging all round the hem, cuffs, collar and front opening. In the French and Austrian service the fur was often black astrakhan or wolf. In British hussar regiments it was usually black or brown astrakhan, with grey for the Royals.
The pelisse could be worn two ways. As an overcoat, pulled on over the dolman and buttoned up, for winter campaigning. Or slung off the left shoulder on a cord called the barrel sash cord, with the right arm free. Slinging the pelisse was the signature hussar look. It protected the sword arm from a sabre cut, it kept the braid of the dolman visible, and it signalled that the wearer was wealthy enough to afford two jackets.
How they were worn together
In parade dress and in warm weather, the pelisse was slung. The cord passed over the right shoulder and the pelisse hung behind and below the left arm, slightly in front of the shoulder blade. The barrel sash, a woven belt of alternating colours, was wrapped twice round the waist to hold the dolman down. On top of all this the hussar wore a sabretache on long slings and a sabre on separate slings, both from a sword belt worn over the dolman.
In winter campaigning the pelisse came on properly, buttoned over the dolman. The combination was warm and ferociously bulky. Hussars on the Russian campaign of 1812 added greatcoats on top, which is why so many photographs and plates of that period show them looking almost shapeless.
Rank differences
Troopers often had plainer braid than officers. In most armies NCO stripes were set across the cuff or on the right arm. Officers' braid was gold or silver depending on regimental tradition, with heavier knots and more intricate patterns. Officers' pelisse fur was usually a higher grade and sometimes a different colour. In the French 7th bis of Lasalle, officers wore black pelisses with silver braid against a trooper's black pelisse with white braid.
Dolman and pelisse today
Most modern successor regiments retain the dolman for parade dress but have dropped the pelisse except for mess dress or on specific colour parades. The British Household Cavalry still carries related garments. Austrian, Hungarian and French ceremonial units keep the full two jacket combination for state occasions. Theatrical productions, reenactment and wedding commissions still make up full dolman and pelisse pairs. If you are buying a hussar jacket today, a short dolman is the usual starting point, and the pelisse is added as an optional second commission.
Common questions
Which jacket is the dolman?
The dolman is the inner, closer fitting jacket, braided across the chest and ending at the waist. It is the one that is always worn, with or without the pelisse.
Why was the pelisse worn off the shoulder?
Three reasons: to protect the sword arm from a sabre cut, to show off the dolman braid underneath, and to signal that the wearer was wealthy or senior enough to afford a second jacket.
Is a pelisse the same as a greatcoat?
No. A greatcoat is a long, loose fitting winter overcoat worn by all ranks on campaign. A pelisse is a short, braided, fur edged jacket that is cut to match the dolman and worn as part of parade dress.
Did troopers wear both?
Yes. In most regiments, troopers were issued both a dolman and a pelisse. The pelisse was simpler in braid and fur than an officer's version, but it was part of the kit.
Can you buy a dolman without a pelisse?
Yes. For weddings and most civilian wear, a well made dolman alone is enough. The pelisse is a popular optional addition for reenactors, theatrical productions and anyone wanting the full parade dress look.