Three different garments served the Regency gentleman's lower half, each for a specific time of day.
Quick answer. The Regency gentleman wore pantaloons (tight knitted or doeskin trousers reaching to the ankle) for daytime, breeches (knee length trousers with silk stockings and buckles) for evening, and overalls or riding breeches (looser cut with gaiters) for country sport. Each required its own footwear: Hessians for pantaloons, dancing pumps for breeches, riding boots for overalls. The combinations were not interchangeable and signalled time of day and occasion.
Pantaloons
Pantaloons were tight fitting trousers reaching from the natural waist to the ankle. Made of knitted cotton, buff doeskin or stretched wool jersey, they clung to the leg like a modern legging. A strap under the arch of the foot kept them taut. Colour: buff, cream, nankeen (yellow) or occasionally dark. Pantaloons were worn with Hessian boots for daytime country or town wear and were considered appropriate for everything short of a formal ball. The tight fit required slim legs; stout gentlemen struggled with the look.
Breeches
Breeches were knee length trousers, worn with white silk stockings and buckled dancing pumps for evening. Fabric: black silk, dark cloth or (less fashionable) cream silk. The breeches ended just below the knee and buckled or buttoned at the knee band. Silver or paste buckles were common. Breeches were formal evening wear through the Regency and were essential at a ball, at court or at any formal dinner. Dancing in pantaloons would have been socially impossible.
Overalls and riding breeches
For hunting, shooting and other country sport, a Regency gentleman wore riding breeches (looser cut, reaching to just below the knee) with tall riding boots. In less active country wear, he might wear overalls (looser trousers reaching to the ankle) with short gaiters. The riding breeches were often in buff doeskin or similar hard wearing cloth. The look was practical rather than fashionable, and admitted more varied colours and heavier cloth than town wear.
The move to trousers
By the end of the Regency, long trousers were beginning to replace pantaloons for everyday wear. The transition was slow. In 1815 pantaloons were still standard; by 1825 trousers were becoming common; by 1835 trousers had displaced pantaloons for daytime wear almost entirely. Breeches survived for formal evening wear through the Victorian era and still appear at court functions today. The modern suit trouser is a direct descendant of the Regency long trouser.
Fabric and construction
Pantaloons were often knitted cotton (very stretchy) or buff doeskin (very hard to clean). Both had drawbacks: knitted cotton stretched with wear and lost shape; doeskin needed cleaning after every outing. A Regency gentleman might own six to twelve pairs of pantaloons and expect to replace them annually. Breeches in silk were more expensive to make but lasted longer because they were worn less often. The construction required a skilled breeches maker, a separate trade from the tailor who made the coat.
Common questions
What is the difference between pantaloons and breeches?
Pantaloons reach to the ankle. Breeches end just below the knee and are worn with silk stockings. Pantaloons for day, breeches for evening.
What boots went with pantaloons?
Hessian boots (knee high with V shaped cutout and tassel) were standard. Wellington boots (plain knee high) became fashionable after 1815.
What colour were pantaloons?
Buff, cream, nankeen yellow, white or occasionally dark. Buff was the most common and standard for a gentleman.
Did men wear long trousers in the Regency?
Long trousers were becoming fashionable by the end of the Regency. By 1820 some gentlemen wore them for day, though pantaloons remained more fashionable until about 1825.
Can I buy Regency pantaloons?
Yes. Specialist tailors make Regency pattern pantaloons, breeches and overalls for Regency balls, themed weddings and theatrical use. Expect four to eight weeks of lead time.